Wednesday, September 29, 2010

Chuseok 2010: Jeju-do

With Jungmun Beach and the sea in the background  

Hey all,

Here's what you've all been waiting for...the vacation blog!  And what a vacation it was!  Although, the vacation didn't start off quite on the right foot.  The gang, which consisted of Dave, Peter (Dave's high school buddy, lives in Munsan (Paju)), Judy (from Hwajeong, near Ilsan, where Dave lives), and myself, all met up in Suwon last Monday to begin our many hours of travel.  We had arranged to take a bus from Suwon to Mokpo on the southwest coast, where we were taking the ferry to Jeju-do on Tuesday afternoon.  I was put in charge of purchasing our bus tickets.  I was pretty certain that I had bought tickets for Monday night, but I didn't double-check to make sure the date on our tickets was correct.  As it turns out, I had actually been given tickets for Tuesday evening, but fortunately, Judy and Peter are both Korean-Americans who are able to speak pretty good Korean and we were able to get the tickets I had purchased fully refunded and exchanged for tickets on Monday night.  We even ended up saving 8,000 won (Huzzah!) that was promptly placed in the party fund.  We arrived in Mokpo a little after midnight and eventually met up with the rest of our traveling party, Veronica, who lives in Daegu (south central South Korea), and Torsten, an exchange student from Germany, who is connected through Veronica.  We were all pretty beat from traveling and made our way to a 찜질방 (jjimjilbang, Korean bathhouse, but if you've been reading this blog for a while you should know what that is).  Soon enough we were asleep and it was Tuesday.  After leaving the .찜질방, we headed towards the ferry terminal with plenty of time to spare.  While we were waiting, I ran into a familiar face.  Dan, the teacher I replaced at my school, is back in Korea, teaching at a private school in Apgujeong, a very nice area in southeast Seoul.  We grabbed some snacks and we were ready to go on the 5 hour ferry from Mokpo to Jeju.  Here's a view from the ferry of us leaving Mokpo:
 
We got into Jeju around 7:30 p.m. and made our way from the ferry terminal in Jeju City to our motel/hotel/Holiday Inn in Seogwipo, about 45 minutes away.  The Galaxy hotel was a pretty sweet find (thanks Lonely Planet!).  For the 6 of us, we had two rooms of 3 people and it only cost 40,000 won for 4 nights, so a little less than $10 a night, ummmm....YEAH!  After dropping our stuff off, we entered full on vacation mode, which we wouldn't leave until touching back down in Incheon on Sunday morning.  Dinner on the first night was a delicious assortment of 휘 (raw fish) that looked like this: 
After dinner, we went to explore the Seogwipo nightlife, which was plentiful.  The next day, we woke up a little later than we had wanted to, but the forecast had called for rain.  Much to our surprise, the rain had passed and the sun was out.  We decided that Wednesday was going to be our day for hiking Hallasan.  Unfortunately, the trail to the top closes at 12:30 so we didn't make it all the way to the top, but we hiked 7.3 km of the 9.3 km up the Seongpanak trail and it was pretty great.  Very scenic (obviously) and even though it was a cooler day, I was still dripping with sweat.  Here's a view from the shelter at the top of our hike, where 람연 (ramyeon a.k.a ramen) is your prize for reaching that point.
By the time we reached the bottom, it started to drizzle and we were ready to make some moves back to the hotel to change for the rest of the evening.  For dinner we went to a restaurant that specialized in 오겹살 (literally five-layered meat, but it's a Jeju specialty, from the black pigs that only live there).  It was good, but i prefer the more traditional 삼겹살 (three-layered pork).  Wednesday night Nate and Kimball (Alex) got in to Jeju and joined us for dinner.  It turns out that they were staying at the same hotel that Dave and I stayed at last May when we were in Jeju for the frisbee tournament, which is only a 15-20 minute walk away from us, so that was really nice.

Thursday we finally made our way to the beach, Jungmun Beach, to be exact.  Dave and Peter's high school friends, Danny and Dana (who I've also become friends with), were staying at the Hyatt hotel right off the beach and they met us out on the beach.  Going to the beach in September in Korea is pretty funny because even though it was 30 celsius, there is a sign on the beach that says the beach is closed.  That didn't stop us foreign folk from going in for a dip.  Sometime in the afternoon we decided that we were ready for lunch and conveniently enough, Danny had driven his motorcycle down from the mainland to sell to another foreign teacher who lives in Seogwipo, Jack Daniels (yes, that really is his name), who would become our unofficial tour guide for the rest of the trip.  Jack told us that horse meat is somewhat available on Jeju and seeing that a few of us are pretty adventurous eaters, we couldn't pass up the opportunity to try something new.  Man oh man, horse meat is pretty delicious.  You have to eat it raw or rare because the meat is so muscular that it gets very tough to chew if it cooks any longer.  Here is a picture of how some of our meat was prepared:
Barbaro?  Scott Brosius?  Mr. Ed?
The long and the short of it is that horse meat is pretty delicious, albeit a more expensive meal.  Definitely not something I could eat once a week, but every now and then it's worth it.  After our late lunch we headed back to the beach to watch the sunset on our very intense Euchre games.  Eventually we were ready to eat again and after cleaning up for the evening, Jack took us to a awesome chicken shack restaurant.  The chicken wings came in two spices, spicy or regular.  A sidenote about Mr. Jack Daniels, the man loves his spices.  He brought back 14 bottles of Sriracha (only the best hot sauce ever) back from the U.S. and brought a bottle to dinner.  These wings brought some tears and packed plenty of punch in the flavor.  From dinner we retreated back to Jack's rooftop for an evening of games and drinks.  Once it got too cold outside we went down to Jack's apartment, where he pulled out some wicked hot sauce.  The instructions tell you to mix in one teaspoon for every gallon of sauce you have.  Here's the warning label:
Needless to say that after seeing this warning label, I was inclined to try it once.  It was a slow burn, moving its way from your tongue, down your esophagus before finally reaching your stomach.  I don't think any amount of rice and frozen yogurt smoothies could have helped Papa with this heat, but thankfully he wasn't anywhere near this spice.  At some point during the evening Jack informed us that he has been spearfishing around Jeju a fair amount and offered to take us out on Friday.  I don't know if any of us actually thought this was going to happen Thursday evening, but these things somehow have a way of working themselves out and our plans materialized on Friday.

First, Friday morning Dave and I woke up early to eat breakfast at the Hyatt with Danny and Dana who were leaving Jeju that afternoon.  The breakfast was a definite upgrade from Dunkin' Donuts and afterwards it was nice to play some more Euchre and lounge around the pool for the better part of the morning.  The rest of our group met up with us and we decided that we did want to go spearfishing, so the call was placed to Jack, who arranged pretty much everything for us.  We met him at the dive shop down the street from his apartment, where we got outfitted with a wetsuit, snorkel, mask, flippers, watershoes, and our spear.  Here's a pic of some of our tools:
The spear is assembled like a tent pole.  There is a large elasticized rubber band on the end, then you connect the three poles and the last pole has a spear on its end.  You shoot the spear like a slingshot, but you have to shoot it at a pretty close distance.  To get to where we were going fishing, we took a boat about 10 minutes from Seogwipo to an island across the water from Jeju.  It was a pretty awesome experience!  I was having a little trouble with my breathing underwater and I kept on taking in a lot of seawater, so unfortunately, I wasn't able to catch anything, but as a group we caught 10 fish, which we cooked up that evening.  Here's a pic of us leaving the island:
Our last night in Seogwipo was a blast.  We all had one final hurrah and Saturday morning found us packing up and checking out of the Galaxy, headed towards Jeju City.  Just outside of Jeju City is an art exhibtion that is pretty explicit in nature called Love Land.  Due to the nature of this blog's audience I'm only including one picture from Love Land.  The rest are up on Facebook, but a warning for all interested, a lot of the artwork is Extremely Explicit, so don't say I didn't warn you.  Anyways, a lot of the artwork looked pretty professional and most of it is.  Here is one sculpture that was fascinating to look at:
Marilyn Monroe and an Eagle
After Love Land, we headed back to Jeju City where we killed some time before we had to be at the ferry terminal for our ferry back to Incheon.  We made a point to be near the front for boarding the ferry to pick out a choice spot to crash for the 13 hour journey.  The rooms we paid for are ondul style, which means no beds, everyone sleeps on the floor.  Thankfully they provided foam brick pillows and blankets, but it was still not quite as comfortable as the bunks on the ferry to and from Japan.  It turns out our room, C-9, was designated a foreigner room.  We had a few Chinese groups, a lot of Westerners (USA, Canada, UK, Australia, South Africa, New Zealand) and then we had a group of Chinese Koreans, who did not look happy to be placed in our room.  After everyone had settled down for a little bit, we headed upstairs for some snacks and fresh air.  When we returned the Chinese Koreans were having a little picnic in their area, complete with kimchi, canned ham, and plenty of soju and maekju (beer).  They started offering some to some foreigners around them and suddenly the air in the room got a little lighter and more jovial.  Peter and Judy were doing their best to hide the fact that they spoke Korean, but eventually their cover was blown and everyone's night completely changed.  C-9 became the party room, much to everyone's delight.  Our party leader was a Chinese Korean ajummah who loved to dance and sing until she hit her wall.  Needless to say we were happy to finally be back in Incheon on Sunday morning, but also thankful that the 13 hours went by much quicker than we thought they would.  All in all it was an awesome vacation and I've already started some rough plans for winter vacation.

In other news, congrats to the Twins for clinching the division, but now it's time to start taking the last week of the season seriously, I'm still terrified of the Yankees in the playoffs.  Congrats to the Vikes for win #1, time to get some chemistry during the bye week.  I've reached January~February 1969 in the John Lennon book and things are starting to go sour for the Beatles.  I've been re-listening to the Anthology CDs as the musical accompaniment to my reading.  That's all from this end, the weather has started to turn to fall here, although not as much as at home it seems like.

What I'm listening to: "Come and Get It" by the Beatles, Anthology 3, CD 2

Links:
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bYVfZSsZahY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bk57K4OGrAg&feature=related


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LkAu3ijigeA&feature=fvw

Saturday, September 18, 2010

Korea-Iran and more...

Hey all,

This current blogpost is a little overdue, but I've been out and about pretty much every night of this past week and haven't had the time to sit down and write until now.  Two weeks ago I went to the Korea Republic vs. Iran soccer friendly at the World Cup Stadium in Seoul.  It was pretty cool to see the national team in action at home and the fervor from the summer's World Cup was definitely still in the air and rampant amongst the fans.  Unfortunately, the home fans didn't see a victory.  Iran beat Korea 1-0 on a great goal.  It was the first time Iran had beat Korea in Korea since 1971.  Still haven't gotten to a baseball game yet, but we're trying, although the postseason is starting soon so it might have to wait until next spring, which is fine. 

Life in Suwon has definitely picked up since the semester started.  Last year there were only 2 of us from Wisconsin that got placed in Suwon.  This year, however, there are 5 of us in Suwon and a few others close enough to come in for dinner or to hang out, which we've done a lot of this past week.  It's been great and I'm pretty happy that this year is going to be much more social during the week than last year was.  Last weekend I took a few of the new guys to Gangnam in Seoul to show them around the area;  it's not a place I go that often, but it is a pretty cool area, lots of ethnic cuisine and cool spots for going out later at night.  Anyways after dinner, we went to Rainbow, which usually has live music, as it did last Saturday night.  The band was pretty good and it was a fun atmosphere, as it usually is.  After hanging out there for a while we made our way back outside to figure out our next move when we found two other English teachers with guitars doing a little busking.  It was raining a little bit and they were playing under a canopy so we decided to check them out and hang out there for a bit to keep dry.  Turns out both of them live in Suwon and we talked for a bit.  When they were leaving one of them forgot his bag, which I took with me, because I figured I could get it back to him in Suwon.  So, Sunday night I gave him a call and we met so I could give him the bag back and after talking for a while, he told me he played in an informal band and I told him that I played piano/keyboard and hadn't played with anyone in a while.  He invited me to the their practice on Tuesday night, which was great and that is where I'm headed in a few hours.  I'll post the setlist we're working with at the bottom. 

In other news, Chuseok is next week so I'm on day 1 of a 9 day break and I can't wait to get to Jeju!  Also looking forward to frisbee tomorrow, the rain has left us for most of this week and tomorrow looks like we might get a full afternoon uninterrupted.  Oh, and how could I forget, maybe a little premature, but congrats to the TWINS for sweeping the Sox in Chicago to pretty much lock up the AL Central!  Suprisingly I'm not too hungry right now, but I have been thinking about what meal would be the best to break the fast with.  I can't remember what it was last year, but I'm sure it was delicious!  I'm also pretty deep into the John Lennon biography that Auntie Holly passed along to me.  I'm on p.330 and it's summer 1963.  That's all from this end, don't worry if you don't hear from me next week, I'll be away, but I'll try and have a Chuseok post up sometime during that last week of September.

What I'm listening to: "Devil In Her Heart" by the Beatles

Setlist:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEYN5w4T_aM&ob=av2n
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sjCw3-YTffo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0FpaK0nGebg&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENXvZ9YRjbo&ob=av3ehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3bOD2Yp0fI4

Monday, September 6, 2010

Typhoonicity


Hey everyone,

Hope you enjoy the cycling polar bear on the right, he can be found at Gwanghwamun (광화문), in old downtown Seoul, at the Green Growth Korea building.  I don't know how he hasn't melted and withered away in the heat and humidity here, but apparently he has some sort of miraculous cooling system.  Anyways, time to recap the last week for all you beautiful people.  The Friday before last (not this: http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0113118/ )  or this,
http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0195945/, or this,  
http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0293815/, but two Fridays ago, we had a going away dinner for our old vice-principal and principal; both of them were moving on to new schools (my old VP got promoted to principal).  The dinner was great!  We went to a tofu restaurant (sundubu: 순두부) and had some delicious bean curd.  This past Friday, we had a welcoming dinner for the new VP and principal at a sushi house, which was also pretty amazing.  I find myself getting really comfortable with these weekly dinners and I hope they keep happening (unfortunately I don't think they will).  But, before I get too far ahead in last week's timeline, let me back things up to last Wednesday.  I got to leave school early in the afternoon to head into a travel agency in Seoul, trying to find a way to China for Chuseok.  Unfortunately, I waited too long and flights were full and expensive, not to mention the 200,000 won visa (Thanks U.S. citizenship!).  Thankfully the afternoon was not a total lost cause; I finally got to take some pictures of the awesome animal display outside the Sejong Center in Gwanghwamun.  Check these guys out:
Glass horse? or maybe Dark Horse?

Clifford the Big Green and Red-Spotted Dog?  

Babar!
Straw Alfalfa
and of course, an animal exhibit wouldn't be complete without the namesake:
A Wolffish, perhaps?
The trip to Gwanghwamun was made complete and fulfilling with a choice dinner spot at Tomatillo Grill, the closest to Chipotle that you can get in Korea and totally worth every won spent there.  Here's the menu:  
http://www.tomatillo.co.kr/sub02_01.html.  MMMmm...burrrrrrrrrito!

Some of you may have heard or seen on the news that a typhoon swept through Korea last Thursday.  Typhoon Kompasu hit Suwon early Thursday morning around 2 am and knocked out the power in my apartment.  Thankfully I had unplugged pretty much everything so nothing important got knocked out.  At school the next day the power was out, which meant no A/C, no computer or Internet, and no lights.  No school lunch either, so I only had to teach one class.  In the afternoon the power came back on, but my Internet was still out.  Seeing that I didn't really have anything to do and I had already napped earlier in the morning, I snuck into the music room and tucked in at the piano.  I was heard by one of the assistant caretakers/librarian? who is a few years younger than me and because he is ineligible for the army (poor eyesight), he is placed at our school to work instead.  Anyways, he plays the guitar and he came in to jam, which we did for a little while.  Needless to say it was a lot of fun. 

This past weekend flew by.  Saturday night there was a kickoff party for Fall Ultimate Frisbee League in Itaewon, which was great, a really good time and a great turnout.  Unfortunately, league play got rained out on Sunday, but I'm really excited to get back into ultimate.  I'm also excited for football season to begin, big game for the Vikes right out of the gate this Thursday against Dem Saints.  Nice win by the Badgers in Vegas on Saturday and big playoff push time for Los Twinkies.  That's all from this end.

What I'm listening to: "Love the One You're With" by Stephen Stills (I'm pretty sure this was a solo single...wow, that sounds redundant) 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_0a10_1BZk

Links:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RqZhM75aGMg
Does Stu Cook know Robbie Robertson? (probably...)

http://thirdstringgoalie.blogspot.com/

Book Review:
Just finished reading this book roughly a week ago and it was a very good read.  Easy enough to get through pretty quickly if you have the time and the dialogue and action keep the book going at a good pace.  Definitely a page turner and I'd say not a boring moment.  Worth checking out if you have a longer plane ride or enough spare time and short book stack on the night stand.








Two last pictures:
Sejong the Great, inventor of Hangul (한글), the Korean Language, and many other things.



They finally finished restoration work on this gate of Gyeongbokgung (경복궁), the main palace in Seoul at Gwanghwamun.